TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE |
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Please refer to your owners manual for
timing procedures and wiring diagrams. Check out the
tech tips page. It is a good idea to run a
basic voltage test before proceeding (see bottom of page).
Make sure you are running resistor plugs and
resistor plug wires.
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Problem: Only one
cylinder will fire:
> Bad coil, spark plug, or spark plug wire.
> No +12 VDC to coil + leads.
> Module wire not connected to coil or wire broken internally or inside of
connector.
> Pinched or shorted coil trigger wire.
> Blockage of optical sensor (clean with alcohol). |
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Problem: Hard starting or engine starts when starter button released:
> Weak or undersized battery please perform voltage test
at bottom of page.
> Poor connections in ign. circuit to coils (breaker, ign. & kill switches).
> Spark plug gap to large.
> Poor ground connection from battery to frame.
> Improper coil choice. |
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Problem: Erratic operation, tach bounce:
> Solid or spiral core spark plug wires being used.
> Rotor pins or Encoder slots rusted or blocked by debris.
> High resistance connection on ground loop from ignition module.
> Defective charging system.
> Blockage of optics in sensor plate or ignition.
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Problem: Static timing LED stays lighted:
> Blockage of optics (clean with alcohol).
> Defective Ignition. |
Problem: Kicks back when starting, runs similar to stock ignition:
> Static timing too advanced recheck static timing (Harley-Davidson
timing marks).
> Voltage drop to ignition (see test at bottom of page).
> Ignition advance curve too aggressive. |
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Problem: Ignition will not
retard under heavy load or acceleration:
> VOES wire or sensor wire on ignition module not grounded.
> Defective VOES or vacuum switch. |
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Problem: Tail pipes blue, hollow sound in pipes, runs sluggish:
> Ignition static timing too far retarded.
> Ignition timing curve too far retarded readjust or reprogram curve.
> VOES or vacuum switch not operating or activating at wrong vacuum.
> Bad connection from wire to VOES or vacuum switch.
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Problem: Spark present at plugs with occasional back fire or wont start:
> Timing wrong check coil wire connections and make sure they are going to the
correct coil.
> Make sure plug wire is attached to the correct coil. Refer to owner's
manual. |
Problem: Pinging when leaving the line:
> Timing to far advanced. Recheck static timing or change advance curve. |
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Problem: Pinging in the midrange:
> Pins in rotor located in the wrong position (too much advance- Not IDS).
> Timing to far advanced. Recheck static timing or change advance curve.
> VOES or vacuum switch not operating or activating at wrong vacuum.
> Bad connection from wire to VOES or vacuum switch. |
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Basic
Voltage test:
Load system by turning on lights & ignition. With negative terminal of volt
meter attached to ground of module, check the voltage at the + (positive) of the
battery & note. Then check the voltage at the + (positive) of the coils & note.
Compare the two and there should be no more than 1 volt difference. If they show
more than 1 volt difference check battery, connectors, ignition breaker,
ignition switch & kill switch for high resistance or opens. Hint-
Check on both sides of the component being testing to see where the voltage drop
occurs. |
BEFORE RETURNING ANY MODULE OR TRIGGER
PLATE INSPECT THE CABLES ON FOR ABRASION, CUTS OR CRUSHING AS THIS IS A COMMON
CAUSE OF FAILURE. ALSO MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING RESISTOR SPARK WIRES AND
RESISTOR PLUGS.
NOTE: Any module returned under warranty must include the trigger plate, note of
explanation of failure & be accompanied by a dated bill of sale. If out of
warranty there will be a $25.00 Charge to cover testing, shipping.
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